Fishing the Salt Flats and Lagoons of Tulum Mexico

Upon arriving on the Boca Paila Fishing Lodge beyond the long row of beachfront Tulum Hotels promptly at 7:30 am, we noticed the place was by now jumping.  Guests had been  finishing up breakfast and the guides were getting the last of their equipment in the boats while being proficiently directed by  Chico, the general manager and the principle host of the property.  Clearly this was not the opening time these guys had done  this, in actual fact Boca Paila has been present since the late 1960s.  To say these guys are pioneers of fishing in this area is  a real understatement, they have been the only game in town back then and it had been a 2 hour drive from Tulum, not 20 to 30 minutes as  it is now.

We came in favor of the fishing and they had been ready on behalf of us.  After momentary introductions with Chico, he informed us that our boat and  guide Alfonso had been by now waiting on the pier on behalf of us.  A quick review of our tackle and off we went.  Chico made sure we  also had a variety of the very best flies and jigs in favor of the locale and season before we departed and handed those to our guide Alfonso  following he personally escorted us into the boat.

Once on the water, Alfonso didnt fritter away much time and we took off across the glass lagoon in the hunt for our first fish of the  day.  There was a brief stop at a cut inside the lagoon, where it meets the ocean, and Alfonso said we needed to stop in favor of  something there.  Without giving away all the secrets and techniques of the locale, the stop proved to become rather helpful during the day.

Following the “stop” where the lagoon meets sea, we made our way to the first of many of what I imagine are Alfonsos favorite  spots within this magical lagoon.  There awaited at least 30 miles of nearly untouched and guarded wetlands and  interconnected natural waterways.

Alfonso killed the engine as we arrived at the first spot and he began poling us across the black rooted mangrove shores as  he surveyed the water with his practiced ability to see.  Within 10 minutes he saw first bone fish and we had been directed to “11 ‘o  clock about 30 feet out,” and then the swift plea to “strip it, strip it, strip it!” We followed our guides instruction and  bingo, my Dad had our primary fish on. Inside two minutes, an additional respectable sized bone fish was caught and released by me.  This  was gonna be entertainment!

Further along the shore, Alfonso continued to scrutinize the waters from his 3 foot platform in favor of the next catch.  This time it  was Permit and I had one on the line.  If you have not caught a Permit fish on a fly rod or maybe light tackle, its difficult  to explain the amount of excitement it genuinely is.  It had been run of the mill size on behalf of the locale, about 10 pounds but it fought for 15 minutes  before relenting and after a quick photo it was released.  What a rush and what a ravishing fish!

a few more Bone Fish and a mixed bag of Jack, Mud Snapper and Porgy and off we went to the next spot.  I thought to myself,  if all of the spots are like that, one of my arms might not make it the day.  We had some issues with the line on my rod and had  to return to the lodge more line which procured Alfonso no time to get back up and running.  

Following about an hour of poling down inside the briny waters close to our first prize pool we had caught a variety more of the  undesired Snappers, Jack and Porgy so we decided to move along once more.  I should point out that there is seldom a uninteresting moment  on the lagoon.  Even when you arent catching fish, theres a lot to see.  In the course of the day we in all probability saw 12 rays of  varied species and witnessed several cases of Mullet boiling, bursting and leaping out of the water to escape from a  striking Barracuda with many birds of countless species and insignia.  We also saw a nesting couple of Sea Eagles  (Osprey).

We crossed the lagoon at great speed the afternoon fishing before gliding in, engine off and back to the poling for  Alfredo.  I ought to point out that Boca Paila Fishing Lodge has an especially able fisherman and guide in Alfons.  I didnt  catch sight of a tenth of what he spotted for us, however he was sitting up 3 feet higher than us, but he was amazing.

Just prior to lunch I got into my second Permit and this one was closer to fifteen pounds and he wanted to run.  The Permit are  relatively common inside the Tulum, Boca Paila locale of the lagoon so I shouldnt have been overly startled to see Alfonso making lunch  while I fought this fish.  What did amaze me was that when I said “I think he’s coming in, grab the net”, Alfonso didnt  stir.  The fish gave me my reply when he took off on an additional long run and I caught a wry smile from Alfonso and went back  to my fish.  an additional 10 minutes and I would finally land that one, and yes, Alfonso had the net ready this time.

Subsequent to lunch, which was wonderful by the way, a ham sandwich, chips and a beer. Subsequent to being in the sun for 4-5 hours, it was one  of the very best lunches I have had in a while and Alfonso showed us the Mexican method of adding some hot sauce to the  sandwiches…it was good.  We moved closer to shore and once more started to stalk the next catch, it was hot and the fishing  appeared to slow a little inside the afternoon heat, but Alfonso was persistent and when he caught me sitting on the bow he demanded  that I stand up. “You can’t catch fish sitting down…stand up ready!”  I was up and about in an instant and was somewhat  embarrassed but that ended instantly after I hooked into another Permit, this one was somewhat smaller, probably 8 pounds but  the battle lasted 10 minutes and the thrill was definitely not gone.

We stalked a variety more small groups of Bone Fish and Permit pairs, landing a few more average sized Bone Fish before  moving on once again.  This time, as we arrived at the new spot, Alfonso informed us that this was a sizable channel and one  of the deeper areas of the lagoon.  Still only 12 to 15 feet deep but we changed up the tackle and went to a large jig with  a significant leader.  I am guessing about 20 to 25 pound test.

This is where things got very attention-grabbing.  We must have hit that channel as a school of baitfish were passing through or  had just passed since it was a feeding frenzy!   The first casts for both my father and I produced two large Snook in the  20 pound range, pretty good fights for both, but pound for pound I believe the Permit is hard to beat.   Anyway, as things  got peculiar, and cast after cast produced larger and larger Snook, I started thinking about the obscure “Super Slam”; Bone  Fish, Permit, Snook and Tarpon.  I would have been ecstatic to possess such an incredible day and fall short but then as if on queue  an additional whopping strike and from the water it arrived, the Tarpon ran beyond the boat at full speed then prepared a run back with  an additional spectacular leap.  While it was relatively undersized a Tarpon at about 10 pounds, it was the icing on a perfect day  of fishing.

We stayed on the channel for 20 minutes or so and I was so tired and completely pleased that I handed my rod to  Alfonso and watched him catch a few more Snook while my Dad did the same and brought in a couple more Bone Fish   measure.

All in all, I must say that this was the very best day of fishing EVER.  Between the company, the Boca Paila Fishing Lodge  services and the brilliant number of fish we caught, this one will be tough to beat.  I would like to once more personally thank  the staff at Boca Paila for this glorious experience we will both never forget!

spearfishing from shore in rivera maya

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